Route Name and Formation or Crag it is located on:
Mr. Green Jingus – Sunshine Wall (Cathedral Spires)
Number of Bolts (example: 5 lead and 2 anchor):
There are 4 existing bolts from the 80s. We would like to add 5 – 7 more for the first pitch and 6 – 8 for the second pitch. Also, 2 anchors.
Estimated Route Length in Feet:
Type of Route:
Use the standard Sunshine Wall approach, then descend the gully past Turkey Foot Crack to the base.
Top Access Description (if any):
It might be possible to climb “New Way,” then use some shenanigans.
Mr. Green Jingus was first attempted by Olaf Mitchell and Chip Wilson in the late 80s. They made it 4 bolts up the wall, drilling by hand and on lead. They had every intention to finish the line, but according to Olaf, “Other projects got in the way.” We have obtained permission from Olaf to finish their line with the agreement that we will not move their bolts. We will however need to replace their bolts as they are around 30 years old.
The route follows a steep slab past a bulge to a slightly less steep slab for ~120ft to a natural break (anchor). One more pitch of a lesser grade will take you to the top of a small tower like feature. We would like to honor the ethic of the Platte, and bolt these pitches on lead, hanging from hooks when necessary. I have a lot of experience doing this and feel comfortable with the task at hand.
Note to add: the anticipated rating field wouldn’t allow me to select anything beyond 10… The first pitch will be in the 12+ range and the second pitch will be in the 5.11 range.
Coordinates (if establishing new area):
Have you top roped this route?
List any routes you have bolted previously (if you have previously been approved, you may skip this step):
Full Facial (13+) – Cynical Pinnacle
The Rodeo (12+) – Thunder Ridge
If and Only If (13-) – Staunton State Park Backdoor Man (12-) – Staunton State Park
100 Proof (12a) – CCC
and many more…
Attach Beta (photo marked with route and anticipated hardware placements) mr_green_jingus.jpg